How to make this panel ring can be
In this tutorial I show how I make the mould
of this ring my way. Cutting a rubber mould is not easy.
Apart from the fact that the piece that has been moulded has
to be cut out so that subsequent waxes can be removed
easily, the mould also has to be cut with 'locks' so that
the parting lines are minimized. The following pictures do
not show how I cut any given piece out of the cured rubber,
but rather what I do for my locks.
I always solder my sprue on.
Normally the sprue would be attached at the bottom of the
ring, but in this case the ring is very thick on the top,
and so the sprue is attached to the heaviest section. This
prevents the wax from shrinking as it cools down in the
This is the ring in a standard
50mm mould frame.
I start packing the mould. I
use Castaldo Gold rubber. And I buy the pre-cut slices. Much
I draw the area out and use a
pair of scissors to cut it out.
I have a supply of Blind
rivets. These are available at hardware stores. I have found
these to be far better than commercially made locking pins.
Then I mark out where I want
to have the rivets positioned.
I use a leather hole making
pliers to make the holes in the rubber. I will take two
layers of rubber and punch the both at once. That way all
the holes are aligned
Then I push the rivets through
the first sheet.
I put the punched layer on.
Then the second punched layer.
Because I punched both sheets at once, the holes are
perfectly aligned This is essential when I use five or six
rivets. The rest of the layers are then put on top and the
mould is vulcanized in the normal manner.
The mould is cut in the normal
manner. The rivets tend to 'float' a bit when the mould is
being vulcanized. This is good, because when the mould is
put together, it 'snaps' shut.
The cut mould. No locks have
to be cut and parting lines are minimal.
To cast this ring follow the
Jewelry Tutorial on Basic Spin Casting
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