Jewelry Studio of Hans Meevis


Jewelry Tutorials by Hans Meevis

Home
Jewelry Catalog
Jewelry Making Tutorial
Jewelry Making Class
How to make jewelry
Step by Step Jewelry
Jewelry Lessons
Gem Carving
The Jewelry Workshop
Jewelry Tools
Jewelers Testimonial
Sculptures - Objets D'Art
News
  Newsletter
  Blog
Contact
  Email
Navigation
  Site Map
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Step by Step Mould Making

Making a Mould of the Panel Ring

How to make this panel ring can be found here  

In this tutorial I show how I make the mould of this ring my way. Cutting a rubber mould is not easy. Apart from the fact that the piece that has been moulded has to be cut out so that subsequent waxes can be removed easily, the mould also has to be cut with 'locks' so that the parting lines are minimized. The following pictures do not show how I cut any given piece out of the cured rubber, but rather what I do for my locks.

I always solder my sprue on. Normally the sprue would be attached at the bottom of the ring, but in this case the ring is very thick on the top, and so the sprue is attached to the heaviest section. This prevents the wax from shrinking as it cools down in the mould.

This is the ring in a standard 50mm mould frame.

I start packing the mould. I use Castaldo Gold rubber. And I buy the pre-cut slices. Much easier.

I draw the area out and use a pair of scissors to cut it out.

I have a supply of Blind rivets. These are available at hardware stores. I have found these to be far better than commercially made locking pins.

Then I mark out where I want to have the rivets positioned.

I use a leather hole making pliers to make the holes in the rubber. I will take two layers of rubber and punch the both at once. That way all the holes are aligned

Then I push the rivets through the first sheet.

I put the punched layer on.

Then the second punched layer. Because I punched both sheets at once, the holes  are perfectly aligned This is essential when I use five or six rivets. The rest of the layers are then put on top and the mould is vulcanized in the normal manner.

The mould is cut in the normal manner. The rivets tend to 'float' a bit when the mould is being vulcanized. This is good, because when the mould is put together, it 'snaps' shut.

The cut mould. No locks have to be cut and parting lines are minimal.

To cast this ring follow the Jewelry Tutorial on Basic Spin Casting

If you have any questions or wish to be notified of any new tutorials that are posted, email me at hansmeevis.tutorials@gmail.com

Even though this is a free Tutorial, there remains a contractual obligation to the intellectual property of Hans Meevis. It is not permitted to copy this tutorial content in any manner whatsoever, be it in print or otherwise, nor be published online regardless as to whether a back link is included.

  Benrather Str. 2, 40213 Carlstadt, Düsseldorf,  Deutschland
Tel: +(49) 942-19-429
E-Mail: jewelry@meevis.com

More information on our Privacy Policy